Some people due to join their cruise ship in Southampton over the next eight days will get there a day or so early so they can take the Red Jet hydrofoil across the Solent to Cowes on the Isle of Wight.
For tomorrow is the start of Cowes Week, Britain’s longest running and most successful annual sporting event. It’s been running almost continually since 1826.
For the first time in many years, Cowes Week has no major sponsor but this is unlikely to make much difference to the racing and festivities.
Over 100,000 spectators are expected to flood into this small seaside town in the coming week to watch around 8,500 competitors (from world class yachtsmen and women, and Olympic champions, to weekend sailors) battling for prize place on the Solent..
If you feel like joining the observers, remember that after the world’s yachties spend the day getting wet outside, their evenings are devoted to getting even wetter inside, usually inside one of Cowes’ hostelries.
All you’ve got to do is find the pub or bar that suits you, order some drinks, and wait until the ‘Cowes Navy’ returns from the racing.
Then there’s all the parties, the live music, the exhibitors, the fireworks and, not least, the networking rituals (“mine’s a Pimms”) of the Public School-educated yahoos and the class warfare/envy of the occasional small waves of state-tutored yobs.
Don’t worry, it rarely comes to blows, but can be fun to watch.
A fellow cruise ship passenger, from land-locked Switzerland, once asked me why the British were so keen on their annual nautical events, such as the Henley Regatta and the Cambridge/Oxford Boat Race.
“We’re surrounded by the sea and love messing about in boats,” I replied, “and the nobs enjoy competing on and off the water.
“They also rarely miss the chance to dress up in blazers and long dresses (and that’s just the men) and rub shoulders with foreign billionaires and minor celebrities.
“Some say it’s the last bastion of Edwardian dress code and social behaviour. Or maybe it’s because a lot of Brits are decidedly eccentric.
“Then there’s all that media attention plus the possibility that a junior Royal may join them in getting pissed and falling overboard. It’s a bit like Cannes, with class.”
Like Henley and the Boat Race, Cowes Week is very much about the shore scene — which includes joining the throng in the famous beer tent in the main marina, stepping out at the smart yacht club balls, pub-crawling up and down the town’s narrow High Street, and late night dancing to the tribute bands that usually headline on the marina’s main stage.
But I’ve said most of that already – it must be the Champagne…which flows like a river throughout Cowes at this point of the British social calendar.
Whether you are a yachting fan or not, joining the hundreds of thousands of spectators in Cowes Week is a great day out. But then the British have longed enjoyed water, preferably with something alcoholic in it.
It will set you up nicely for your cruise, for you’ll need one to get your strength back.
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18 Comments
Jul 31 2009
12:30
One of my mother’s best friends was called Marina.
Jul 31 2009
16:37
I believe my mother met my Berlin-born father in a marina – he was trying to torpedo it at the time. Or so they say. Mind you, there were never many marinas in Beckenham, Kent. But perhaps his U-Boat surfaced in the stream at Cator Park…I used to wade down it when I was a young boy, until I noticed the leeches.
Jul 31 2009
21:24
So long as the yachties don’t ‘wreck’ my house – hope to find it as we left it – clean and tidy!! We can’t afford to be there in Cowes week………….!! Enjoy
Aug 01 2009
9:01
Your blogs are s a most happy blend of information and humor.
I’ve learned a huge amount of maritime history, folklore and general knowledge each week as well as having many a giggle.
Move over Bill Bryson !
Aug 01 2009
13:16
Hello there again James, again another interesting perspective- we brits do love to dress up -have a good time -a little competion and some good wine- our ideal summer
Aug 03 2009
14:57
Cowes Week Day One (Saturday 1 August)
Not a great start…the sky was overcast all day and there was intermittent drizzle which kept the usual crowds of spectators away. The young lady on the Bulmers Cider stand in the Marina asked me if it was always like this, for this was her first visit to Cowes. “What the rain, the lack of people, and the inability to actually see the boats racing unless you’re equipped with GPS, radar and ESP?” I replied. “Nah, it’s just a combination of poor weather and the credit crunch. Once the sun comes out, it’ll get better.” It’s actually the quietest start to Cowes Week that IU have ever known and I’m keeping my fingers crossed…
Aug 03 2009
15:05
Cowes Week Day Two
Hooray! A sunny day!
The crews are looking happier (cos they will have an audience today for their Solent antics). There has been plenty of people in the town but the marina was virtually empty until late in the afternoon. The man from the Co-op said he was in the Marina at 10pm last night and there were only nine other people there. Things were so grim they’d dramatically cut the prices of the food and drinks. I didn’t see the live music earlier in the evening, just hope the numbers were better. But that was yesterday and it’s all perkin up.
One of the problems is that the landside events are spread throughout Cowes. During the day spectators hang out on the seafront near Prince’s Green (just after the Royal Yacht Squadron) to watch the racing.
But there are lots more people around so it’s now looking like the exciting Cowes Week I remember…
Aug 03 2009
15:14
Cowes Week Day Three (Monday)
Another bright sunny day and the town is heaving with visitors. Even the marina is starting to look crowded.
The man from the Co-op assured me that Prince Harry and Prince William both arrived in Cowes early Saturday morning and that they’re staying in the town. Rang some friends who own hosterlries here and none of them know anything (or will admit they know anything). Harry and William came to Cowes last year and stayed at Rawlings – they enjoyed it so much I understand they indicated they wanted to return.
Well if they are here someone will see them soon enough, and snap them on a mobile phone..
Yesterday, shortly after 10am the Laser SB3s started, heading east with the 60-strong fleet making a spectacular sight with their asymmetric spinnakers set. Among the onlookers was William and Harry’s grandfather, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and his entourage on board the Trinity House flagship Galatea, moored in Cowes Roads. So if the lads were around why didn’t they hang out with grandad?
I believe the lads’ cousin, Zara, is sailing here on Wednesday…maybe I’ll catch a glimpse of them then…
Aug 04 2009
8:35
Cowes Week Day Four:
Hate to disappoint some of you who are Royal watchers but I don’t think Harry and Wills are in Cowes. When they came here last year they went down very well with the locals so there would be no reason to hide away. Shame really, cos I like them (and most of the senior Royals, actually). It’s just some of the people who aspire to Royalty who get on my breastbone.
Meanwhile it’s a cloudy rainy start to the day so this may keep some spectators away. Pity, for yesterday’s racing was quite spectacular and if the wind keeps up we’ll have more of the same today. So if you’re Southampton waiting for the cruise ship to depart and have time to spare – get over here!
Aug 04 2009
14:10
Cowes Week Day Four Afternoon
The rain eased off fairly quickly and it has been dry for hours. Lots of visitors around enjoying themselves and the racing looks good. Party people head for Shepherd’s Wharf Marina, which apparently gets jampacked late in the evening. The black tie balls and cocktail parties are sold out. Harry and Wills’ personal protection squad were spotted in Cowes (with 2 limos) Saturday lunchtime, but nobody has seen the lads themselves. Perhaps they’ll come for the fireworks on Friday night…Or maybe some of us have too many Pimms…
Aug 04 2009
14:32
Images of Cowes Week
Thought I should mention that while I am wandering around Cowes looking for cruise ship passengers (found three, this morning), I am snapping photos of whatever takes my fancy. A couple of images from last year’s Cowes Week (the one that was sponsored by Skandia) have crept in…I blame it on the Talisker malt…
Aug 04 2009
17:25
Nice pictures. IoW is one of my favourite places. I love how the entire island is surrounded by water.
Aug 05 2009
12:54
Love the Photos James, I honestly didn’t know Cowes Week had been running that long. Love to Gwenda.
Linda
Aug 05 2009
15:55
Cowes Week Day Five
The morning started off dull and slightly drizzly but the sun has come out and it is now very humid. None of this has stopped the yacht crews who are raring to go and seem to be enjoying themselves.
Bumped into an old friend in town who said Cowes Week is now much more manageable…it’s a lot easier to get around. A couple of years ago you had to fight your way through the town which was so unbearable many of the locals avoided it until the week was over.
Now I would encourage visitors to take a gander for at least they won’t get stampeded.
Aug 07 2009
7:00
Cowes Week Day Five
This was a day of light winds and challenging conditions for competitors and race officers alike.
The nine Open 60s competing in the Artemis Challenge got away at 10:00, but the plan for a round the island race was changed to a round-the-cans course outside the forts that dot the Solent.
The results of this particular race were based on the timings at Bembridge Ledge: BT, who was leading at the time, was deemed the overall winner, and Pindar was second. Simon Clay on Artemis The Profit Hunter with celebrity guest Bryan Adams, were third. Stable mates – Artemis Ocean Racing, with Sam Davies and special guest Zara Phillips, finished fourth.
On shore, everybody continued to have a good time.
Aug 07 2009
7:06
Cowes Week Six
Mixted weather conditions made the racing interesting, to say the least. There were plenty of spectators to see the action.
Bumped into my dental nurse – who was wearing tight-fitting serious cycling gear and astride her mountain bike…Wow! I suggested that next time I come in to get my teeth cleaned she should dress like this. I reckon the dentist could extract teeth from me with no anaesthetic for I would be captivated..Not sure what my wife would say, tho’
The DN told me she was cycling round Cowes looking for celebrities and all she had spotted was Alan Titchmarsh, who has a flat in town anyway.
Told her not to bother looks for the two Princes, who have possibly been and gone, or not been at all.
Aug 07 2009
7:14
Cowes Week Day seven
Forgot to mention that my pc crashed yesterday, in sympathy with the weather, which is why I am running so late with…everything.
The week is almost over and tonight the shoreside activities will culminate in the glorious annual Fireworks display that attracts tens of thousands of visitors to this small town from other parts of the island, and the mainland.
It will be a great sight for the cruise ships currently berthing in Southampton…maybe one of them will set off this evening and witness this sparkling event on the Solent. If they do, they’ll have to fight their way through the armada of boats.
Aug 10 2009
9:04
Cowes Week Last Day (Saturday 8th)
Last night’s annual display by the Red Arrows, followed by a spectacular fireworks display that could be seen on the mainland, was excellent – and raised the usual loud cacophany of boat whistles and horns and hooters from the countless boats that had moored just off Cowes to witness this annual event.
As the one hundred and eighty third year of Cowes Week came to a close today, the organisers reported another classic year, despite the lack of a major sponsor. “It’s been a great week,” said Stuart Quarrie, CEO of Cowes Week Limited. “In the first half of the week we had ideal conditions and great sailing; the second part of the week saw sunshine and light breezes which made for more challenging racing. Whatever the weather, the 890 plus entrants into Cowes Week 2009 enjoyed their time on the water creating an eye-catching spectacle for visitors on the shore.”
I had a great time walking through the town every day, watching people enjoying themselves.
Saturday lunchtime I bumped into my friend, Sue Peart, with what appeared to be her entire family, on Cowes Parade.
By the way, Happy Birthday Sue, for tomorrow.
And may Cowes Week continue to enjoy more birthdays.