Years ago, when the centre of Northern Ireland’s capital was a virtual no-go area at night, I rang a friend on the Belfast Telegraph and suggested that maybe I should write a smoker’s guide to his city, to encourage more tolerance.

“The only things that are smoking here, James,” he said, sadly, ”are the guns.”

I’m glad to say that those dark days are gone. For decades Belfast has been one of the most underrated cities in Europe but it is at last emerging into the light, like a Phoenix from the ashes of history.

Which is why, despite Northern Ireland’s financial meltdown, Belfast is looking forward to its busiest ever cruise season, as it welcomes the Amadea – the first of an unprecedented 41 cruise ships to Belfast on 14 May, bringing an estimated 67,745 passengers and crew into the city.

Indeed, droves of non-UK tourists are descending on this feisty little city with fists full of Euros and Dollars, for the exchange rate is now very much in their favour. And there are a lot of splendid, spanking new shops, hotels and restaurants in Belfast to spend your money in. Plus the locals are very friendly.

Like so many of Europe’s great cities which also happen to be popular cruise destinations, Belfast grew up on the banks of a river. The capital enjoys a beautiful setting at the head of a broad sea lough at the mouth of the river Lagan, which flows east into the Irish Sea. Ireland’s first industrial city, Belfast is sheltered by the green hills of County Down and the mountains of Antrim.

Wandering around Belfast with a Partagas cigar a year or so ago, I marveled at the regenerated area by the river Lagan, the new Cathedral Quarter, and the shining acres of newly erected elegant buildings, wide-open plazas, splendid modern public artworks, countless shops, and the trendy bars and restaurants jostling with traditional pubs on narrow cobbled streets.

Towering above it all are vast cranes – including Titanic shipbuilders Harland & Wolff’s ‘Samson and Goliath’ which have dominated the eastern skyline for over 30 years – all hard at work lifting Belfast into the 21st century.

At ground-level, Belfast is a great place to enjoy a bit of craic (i.e. fun, usually a combination of drink, banter, live music and, once upon a time, a smoke) in a traditional Irish bar such as the Crown liquor saloon, which was immortalised in Carol Reed’s classic film noir, Odd Man Out, and is now preserved as a national monument. It’s the perfect place to discuss Belfast footballer George Best’s schooldays or local hero Van “The Man” Morrison’s music over a creamy pint of Guinness or an Irish hot toddy, while eating fresh Irish oysters.

Shame about the smoking ban, for it used to be a great thing to sit in a Belfast bar with your favourite drink and cigar.

Which reminds me on the man in the Belfast pub who said to his friend, “My wife drives me to drink.”

“You’re lucky,” said his friend. “My wife makes me walk.”

Ah well, as my Dublin-born grandmother used to say, you can’t have everything.

James Leavey

Related posts:

• Herfing in Hamburg – a Moveable Feast It was raining in Hamburg and my Afghan taxi...

Posted in Destinations